7/28/20101:35:40 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Best Europe River Cruises
A river cruise, at first glance, seems like a wonderfully tranquil way to see some of the most historic towns and cities in Europe. Wait, did I say tranquil? Appearances are deceiving. Unlike coastal cruises, voyages along Europe's waterways rarely offer much time "at sea." And in port, there are busy sightseeing schedules included at all stops, which range from major cities like Amsterdam and Vienna to delightful, small towns and villages such as Austria's Durnstein and Germany's Breisach.
The biggest challenge about planning a European river cruise is identifying which itinerary most intrigues you. We're here to help you narrow down your choice. But, before we get started, here are some things you should know, followed by a few tips:
- Most river cruises are a week long. More exotic trips can occasionally stretch from 10 days to two weeks.
- They almost always start from fantastic cities; most trips include an overnight onboard, but if not, do try to plan a pre- or post-cruise stay.
- In almost all cases, daily shore excursions are included in the fares you pay. They'll run along the lines of pretty basic introductory tours of the cities and towns you visit. Some companies such as Uniworld also offer fee-extra tour options that are a bit more unusual.
- One caveat about cruising Europe's rivers: The season typically runs from April to October, but be aware that heavy rain and spring flooding can make the rivers swell and the locks become impassable. (Many are under bridges, so if the water is too high, boats can't fit underneath.) Likewise, if there's a drought, low water can be a problem. If boats can't move, you'll be taken to the sights by motorcoach.
- And finally, as ever in big cities, avoid carrying too much money, and keep valuables safe, especially if you go ashore in the evenings.
Rhine/Moselle/Main
In a Nutshell: Rhine River cruises combine history and culture. You'll sail through spectacular scenery dotted with Sleeping Beauty-esque fairytale castles, and discover some of the oldest and most historic cities in Germany.
Typical Itinerary: The Rhine flows from Switzerland to Amsterdam in Holland, passing towns and cities in France and Germany that harbor centuries of history and culture. The Moselle flows into the Rhine from northeast France and Luxembourg. The Main River flows into the Rhine from eastern Germany; cruise along this, and you'll end up in the Main Danube Canal, which connects to the Danube.
The most popular Rhine cruise is a one-week sailing from Amsterdam to Basel in Switzerland, or vice-versa.
One-week itineraries typically call at Cologne, famous for its twin-towered Gothic cathedral, and Koblenz, which sits at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle and is overlooked by the Ehrenbreitstein fortress, one of the largest castles in Europe. Then you'll sail through the Rhine Gorge, which stretches for 65 kilometers (40 miles).
This is the most spectacular section of the river, with miles of castles, spires, Romanesque churches, and precipitous riverside vineyards. It's a UNESCO World Heritage Site and famous for the Lorelei Rock, where, according to legend, a beautiful maiden threw herself to her death over a faithless lover and now lures sailors to their deaths with her hypnotic singing.
Weeklong cruises also usually visit Rudesheim in one of Germany's top wine-growing areas, Heidelberg, which houses Speyer, the oldest university in Germany. Speyer has a fabulous Romanesque cathedral, Strasbourg, home of the European Parliament, and Breisach, gateway to the Black Forest.
Getting There: You'll fly into Amsterdam (or Basel if you are sailing northbound), from which it's a short transfer to embark your vessel. If you're coming from London or Southeast England, an easier option is to travel by train, taking Eurostar through the Channel Tunnel and changing onto Europe's rail network at Lille, Brussels, or Paris. It's quite a long train journey from Basel to the U.K., but if time is not an issue, look at it as a bonus chance to see more of Europe.
Favorite Memories: Enjoy a glass or two of the local wine on the Drosselgasse in Rudesheim to get a taste, literally, of this buzzy little alleyway that is packed with shops and wine bars.
In Strasbourg, check out the spectacular Gothic Cathedral. Then head for lunch at Le Gurtlerhoft in the big square outside. You dine in the cellars, and they serve a mean choucroute, the French name for sauerkraut and a favorite there because the city has been both French and German many times through its history. But, beware—the portions are huge.
Watch Out For: Remember, in Europe they drive on the right—the opposite way to the U.K. (though North Americans should have little trouble adjusting). Most drivers stop at pedestrian crossings, but never rely on it. Wait for cars to come to a halt before crossing.
Not every view is a picture postcard. Inevitably, you'll also cruise past ugly industrial areas and power plants and maybe moor by a road or nondescript apartment block. Forewarned is forearmed.
Been There, Done That?: Why not slow it all down and give yourself two weeks to explore from Amsterdam to Basel? You'll see many more fascinating towns and cities. Conversely, if time is tight, there are shorter four- and five-night itineraries‐for instance, from Basel to Dusseldorf or vice-versa, and roundtrip from Cologne. In spring, you can take minicruises from Amsterdam to see the bulb fields.
You can also cruise the Moselle and Main, sailing between Trier, which dates back to the Romans and boasts the stunning Porta Nigra, one of the original gates into the city, and Nuremberg, infamous for its Nazi rally grounds and the Nazi war crime trials after the Second World War.
You can also combine itineraries. There are cruises from Amsterdam to Trier, from Trier to Budapest, and from Amsterdam to Basel via Trier.
The ultimate in European river cruising has to be a two-week cruise from Amsterdam to Budapest, or the opposite, using the Rhine, Main, Main Danube Canal, and Danube, or a three-week voyage from Amsterdam to the Black Sea, flying home from Bucharest in Romania.
Danube
In a Nutshell: A Danube cruise is a lesson in history about the days when Vienna ruled an empire and, more recently, when an Iron Curtain divided Europe. Now the curtain has gone, and you can explore cities that were all but closed to the west for more than 40 years.
Typical Itinerary: The Danube flows from the Black Forest in Germany to the Black Sea in Romania, passing through or between Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Serbia, Croatia, Bulgaria, and Romania on the way.
Most itineraries are one week and start and end in Passau in Germany, on the Austrian border. You'll most likely fly into Munich and transfer to the ship, in which case why not consider adding a couple of extra nights in the city? It's a lively place with palaces, churches, and beer halls, but for a special treat, take an excursion to Neuschwanstein to see the fairytale castle built for King Ludwig II in the late 19th century; it inspired Disney's Sleeping Beauty castle. Munich is one-and-a-half hours from Passau; many cruise lines offer transfers.
One-week, roundtrip Passau cruises visit Vienna, famous for the Hofburg Palace, from which the Habsburgs ruled Austria for 700 years. You can also see the stunning white Lipizzaner horses at the Spanish Riding School, and Budapest, which is actually two cities, Buda and Pest, divided by a river and packed with history, culture, and loads of spas.
You'll also visit Linz, a small town at the centre of Austria's wine-growing region, from which it might be possible to take excursions to Durnstein and Esztergom in Hungary, as well as Salzburg and Melk, which is famous for its Benedictine Abbey.
Favorite Memories: I'll never forget the moment I walked into a room in the Military Museum in Vienna that held just three exhibits—a car, a blood-stained uniform, and chaise lounge—and the sudden realization that these were all connected to the assassination of the Archduke Ferdinand I 1914, the final spark that ignited the First World War.
Splash out on coffee and Sacher Torte in one of Vienna's coffee houses. We're talking literary cafe, rather than Starbucks, following a 300-year-old tradition that allows you to linger over coffee as long as you like. I went to Cafe Central on Herrengasse, which claims Hertzl, Lenin, and Trotsky as former patrons. I was thrilled to be able to say I was there, too, but I paid well for the privilege!
You'll spend half a day "at sea" between Linz and Durnstein, and it's the most beautiful scenery of the trip, as the river is framed by low mountains that are covered with vineyards. In Durnstein, borrow one of your ship's bikes, and cycle through the Napa-style countryside.
In Budapest, I fell in love with the Disney-esque Fisherman's Bastion in Buda's Castle District. That area offers great views of the city, a myriad of cobbled streets to explore, and plenty of places for a bite to eat! Who could want more? In Pest, the two-hour RiverRide on an amphibious coach is a great way to acquainted with the city from land and sea. It runs daily and is priced about €27 (about $33, see XE.com for current exchange rates).
Watch Out For: Moorings in Vienna and Budapest are beside busy and noisy roads. When booking, ask your river cruise operator for a cabin on the water side.
Been There, Done That?: There are many variations of the roundtrip Passau cruise, including one-way voyages from Passau to Budapest or from Nuremberg in Germany to Budapest. There are also voyages between Budapest and the Black Sea that include two nights each in Budapest and Bucharest at the start and end of the cruise, as well as two-week cruises from Passau to the Black Sea or vice-versa.
Choose these longer cruises, and you'll visit Bratislava in Slovakia, which has a delightful Old Town, and Belgrade in Serbia, one of the oldest capital cities in Europe, where you can visit the memorial of Josip Tito, the Communist leader of the former Yugoslavia.
You'll also sail through the stunning Iron Gate Gorge—actually four gorges east of Belgrade, rolled into one name, that stretch for 90 miles and divide the Carpathian and Balkan Mountains, narrowing to just 150 meters at one point. Be sure to have cameras at the ready.
Rhone/Saone
In a Nutshell: If you like wine, this is the river cruise for you, as it sails through Provence and Burgundy, two of France's top wine-making regions. You'll cruise past acres of vineyards and have ample opportunities to taste the local grapes.
Typical Itinerary: The Rhone rises in Switzerland and flows into France, emptying into the Mediterranean near Arles. The Saone rises in France. They converge at Lyon, where the Saone becomes the Rhone.
The main itinerary is a seven-night cruise from Lyon to Arles or nearby Avignon, or the reverse. Some cruises also depart from Chalon-sur-Saone, just north of Lyon.
If you're cruising from Lyon, you'll fly into Lyon airport, from which it's a short transfer to your river boat, and fly out of Marseilles, which is about one hour and 15 minutes by car from Arles. Some operators fly you in and out of Lyon, with a coach trip between Avignon and Lyon at the start or end of the cruise, depending on whether your cruise is north or southbound.
An increasingly popular option for British passengers is to take the Eurostar train from London through the Channel Tunnel and transfer onto one of France's fast TGV trains in Paris (if you're travelling to/from Lyon) or Lille (if traveling to/from Avignon).
Speaking of Paris, you might also add a pre- or post-cruise stay there before taking the fast TGV to Lyon.
Cruises typically call at Beaune, the wine capital of Burgundy, and Vienne, where you can visit the remains of a 14,000-seat amphitheater and a temple built in 25BC in honor of the Roman Emperor Augustus and his wife Livia. There's also Avignon, home to the only bridge in France with a song named after it. We know it as Pont d'Avignon, but it is actually Pont St-Benezet.
You'll also visit Viviers, a small, walled city with buildings dating back to the Middle Ages, and Tournon, famous for its wine and chocolate. There will also be plenty of time to explore Lyon, a big city with a cobbled old town and stunning Gothic and Renaissance architecture.
Favorite Memories: Pick a cruise that stays overnight in Lyon so you can dine out in the city known as the gastronomic capital of France. Of course there is haute cuisine, but for a dine-with-the-locals option, try a bouchon. These restaurants serve traditional Lyonnaise food (sausages, duck pate, and chicken) in simple surroundings and are licensed annually to make sure they are authentic. Le Tablier in the Old Town was great, but there are plenty more. Look for the word "bouchon" on the front of the restaurant.
The Roman amphitheatre at Arles was an unexpected treasure. Actually, so was the rest the city, with its narrow streets and medieval and Gothic architecture. Van Gogh loved to paint there; a fun game is to see if you can spot some of the scenes from his paintings.
Watch Out For: British travelers: Note that people drive on the right in France, the opposite to the U.K., so take extra care when crossing roads.
Service is usually included in restaurants in France, and will say so on the menu if it is. If you decide to leave a tip as well, small change or a couple of euros is quite acceptable.
Been There, Done That?: There really is only one option on the Rhone, but why not take advantage of being in France and add a couple of nights in Paris to the start or end of the cruise? It'll give you time to have a taste of the highlights, including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Champs Elysees, and the Arc de Triomphe.
Douro
In a Nutshell: If you like scenery, you'll love cruising the Douro River, which twists and turns through steep, vine-clad slopes and rocky outcrops as it makes its way from Porto, the second-largest city in Portugal, to the Spanish border. An added attraction is port, the fortified wine that took its name from the city. The drink is a local celebrity, so there'll be plenty of tastings en route.
Typical Itinerary: The Douro rises in north central Spain and flows southwest and into northern Portugal, emptying into the Atlantic at Porto.
Riverboat lines all cruise the same itinerary, sailing from Porto to Vega de Terron, on the border with Spain, a distance of 210 kilometers (130 miles). You pass through five locks as you go. At Vega de Terron riverboats have to turn back because the river is no longer navigable.
You'll fly into and out of Porto, unless you add extra time in Lisbon, Portugal's capital city, which is two-and-a-half hours by train to the south.
Your cruise will either start or end with a tour of Porto, an elegant city built on steep hills that is most famous for its port wine lodges. Once under way, cruises stop at Regua, in the heart of port wine country, for excursions to Lamego, where the chief attraction is the 18th-century Nossa Senhora dos Remedios pilgrimage church, standing atop of a 686-step baroque staircase.
You'll also call at Pinhao, a favorite haunt for port wine tastings, and Vega de Terron for a full-day excursion to the city of Salamanca in Spain. Vega is in Spain; when you rejoin the vessel after a day away, it will have turned around and be moored at Barca d'Alva, on the Portuguese side of the river, for a next-day excursion to tiny Castelo de Rodrigo.
Favorite Memories: What an incredible city Salamanca is! It's known as the Golden City on account of its yellow sandstone buildings, and it's home to one of the oldest universities in the world. Take a stroll around the market, which boasts stalls crowded with cured hams and dried sausage. Visit the cathedrals and churches, and finish up with tapas and beer on the Plaza Mayor, one of the largest squares in Spain, made for a fabulous day out.
Pinhao is a delightfully sleepy little place (although I'm assured it comes to life in autumn for the grape harvest). Be sure to check out the railway station, decorated with the blue-and-white tiles (azulejos) that are ubiquitous in Portugal. Then call at the Vintage House Hotel for a glass of port on the terrace. It's right by the dock, with views over the river, so you can't miss it.
Watch Out For: Don't come on this cruise for iconic cities dripping in history. Salamanca is a gem, but Castelo de Rodrigo can be ticked off in 20 minutes, while Lamego takes about a half hour. It really is all about scenery and enjoying the local tipple.
Been There, Done That?: If you add a couple of nights in Lisbon at the start or end of the cruise, why not also take a couple of days to drive north, staying at one of Portugal's beautiful quintas—small hotels that have opened in former manor houses—along the way?
Elbe
In a Nutshell: This is a cruise for anyone who loves discovering the past. You'll have a bit of time in Berlin and Prague at the start and end of the cruise and discover the birthplace of the Reformation along the way.
Typical Itinerary: The Elbe rises in the Czech Republic, flows into Germany and empties into the North Sea at Cuxhaven, near Hamburg.
There is only one cruise option—seven nights, sailing either from Magdeburg in Germany to Melnik in the Czech Republic, or vice-versa. You'll either fly into Berlin and out of Prague or the other way around, depending which direction you are sailing.
The itinerary starts with a tour of Sanssouci Palace in Potsdam; then it's a one-hour transfer to the boat in Magdeburg—a 65-mile journey—for the cruise.
Stops include Wittenberg, the birthplace of the Reformation; Meissen, famous for its eponymous porcelain; and Dresden, which was leveled by Allied bombers towards the end of the Second World War. You'll also cruise through craggy Saxon Switzerland, and call at Litomerice, a pretty little Czech town with a mix of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque buildings.
Favorite Memories: You have to do the history in Berlin—Checkpoint Charlie, the Reichstag, and the Jewish Museum—but make time for shopping on the Kurfurstendamm, which has fashion favorites, including H&M, Benetton, and Zara. Also opt for dinner at the Kartoffelkeller, or potato cellar, which serves more than 100 potato dishes. It's always busy, so be sure to book ahead.
Wittenberg was an eye-opener, thanks to a great guide. I finally understood what drove German priest Martin Luther to fight against the established church. Dresden was a sobering reminder of the horrors of war, but it was great also to see how they have rebuilt the city to its former glory.
And who could not love Prague, the capital of the Czech Republic? I could have stayed all day on the ancient Charles Bridge, just watching the swarms of painters, musicians, souvenir-sellers, and tourists.
Watch Out For: This is quite a strenuous itinerary with a lot to see, so if you have mobility concerns, discuss them first with your river cruise operator.
Been There, Done That?: There is only the one itinerary on the Elbe, but you really must add extra days in Berlin and Prague at the start and end to make this holiday complete.
Seine
In a Nutshell: This is a favorite with gardeners because it visits Monet's garden in Giverny. It is also a top choice for Francophiles and all those who want to see the Second World War landing beaches.
Typical Itinerary: The Seine rises in France, flows north through Paris into Normandy, and empties into the English Channel at Le Havre.
River cruises sail from Paris to Rouen or Caudebac and back. Most will fly into Paris. If you're traveling from Southeast England, it makes more sense to take the Eurostar train through the Channel Tunnel from St. Pancras in London to Paris Gare du Nord in the centre of Paris. Journey time is just two hours and 15 minutes.
There is only one itinerary. It'll include a full day in Paris, which is just enough time to go up the Eiffel Tower and explore Montmartre, which is always packed with artists, and also stop at Vernon to visit Giverny, where artist Claude Monet lived from 1883 until his death in 1926.
Other calls include Les Andelys for excursions to Chateau-Gaillard—built in 1196 by English king Richard the Lionheart in the days when England owned Normandy—and Rouen, where Joan of Arc was burnt at the stake.
Rouen is also the jumping-off point for excursions to the Normandy beaches or to Honfleur, a pretty little fishing village. From Conflans you can visit the Palace of Versailles.
Favorite Memories: Dinner in bustling St. Germain in Paris is a must. There are loads of restaurants from all over the world, none particularly gourmet, but it's a lively place come nightfall. Rouen is fabulous, as there is so much to do—see the city and take an excursion to the Normandy beaches where allied troops landed in 1944. Also try a gastronomic tour of the region, tasting its cheese, Calvados, and cider.
Watch Out For: Watch out for Paris drivers. They are supposed to stop at zebra crossings, but wait until they come to a halt before stepping into the road.
Paris is hugely expensive these days. The Champs-Elysees is hugely over-priced, but other areas are not much better.
Queues for a lift to the top of the Eiffel Tower are horrendous. If you want to go up, get there early.
Been There, Done That?:
There is only one itinerary on the Seine, but if you're coming back, add more days in Paris, either at the start or end of the cruise. One day is not nearly long enough.
7/13/201012:22:38 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Best Ships for Getting Away From it All
Cruising has traditionally been tailor-made for social butterflies. Cruises brim with chatty couples and singles looking to partake in the easy camaraderie onboard. You wouldn't expect to bump into guests you've met before at a beach resort, yet on certain ships repeat cruisers are the norm—they know everyone, down to the last crewmember, and will be determined to add you to their long list of friends.
But what if your ideal vacation is to avoid the herd and just "be"?
Take my husband, Mike, for example. He's what I'd describe as a loner. Not a la Jack Nicolson in The Shining, mind you; he's a still-waters-run-deep type of guy who, at home or on vacation, would rather just read or quietly hang out with his family. Mike has never warmed to cruising's stereotypically noisy social scene, with bingo nights, pushy photographers, ra-ra cruise directors, and singing waiters. He envisions a claustrophobic environment, where PA announcements constantly puncture the quiet, you have to queue for everything, and each evening brings another nightmare of banquet-style dining and unavoidable chit-chat with strangers. Why would he want to waste precious vacation time on that?
If you identify with Mike, I'll tell you what I told him: When the goal is to switch off your BlackBerry and find time alone or with loved ones, cruises today can deliver. Though cruise lines don't market to quiet types, per se, more are coming aboard anyway—attracted by such things as open-seating dinners (with plenty of tables for two), packed itineraries that leave little time for idle chatter, and thoughtfully designed ship-within-a-ship zones that offer refuge on even the largest vessels. And, while you may suffer through the occasional line or crowd, you can always find plenty of places onboard to seek solitude.
Here are our top picks for ships to get away from it all—and, if you so choose, away from everyone else.
Why: The biggest ships are roomy enough to disappear into, with entertainment, sightseeing, sports, and activities to suit every sort of personality. Celebrity Cruises, Cunard, Royal Caribbean, MSC Cruises, Princess, Carnival, and Costa all boast ships measuring more than 100,000 tons that carry thousands of passengers. But, of course, none beats the world's largest passenger vessel, with its capacity for 6,296 passengers and 2,394 crew, seven neighborhoods, 16 passenger decks, nearly two dozen restaurants and bars, plus shops, theatres, and a myriad of other public spaces. The ambience on Oasis of the Seas is cordially anonymous: As one Cruise Critic reviewer put it, it's "simply too vast to inspire connections." You can be introduced to someone early on and never cross paths again—and that really is a plus for the loner. Sister ship Allure of the Seas, whose maiden sailing is December 1, 2010, promises more of the same.
Quiet Escapes: Leafy Central Park is the standout among the Oasis-class ships' many restful nooks. Pop in for tapas in the afternoon at Vintages, a mood-lit wine bar with a floor-to-ceiling glass wall looking out onto the park. Oasis' Promenade Deck is where you'll exercise away the tapas; it's actually a .46-mile jogging track with an ocean view and is practically deserted come early evening. What could be more serene?
Best Rest: Spacious suites, preferably with balconies, give the feel of a retreat and, thus, are a better choice for solitary cruising than windowless, cheerless inside cabins that force you out into the ship's hustle and bustle. Choose a sea-facing balcony cabin for fresh air without fighting over deck chairs, or a balcony suite facing the AquaTheater, where you have a V.I.P. view of the show without ever taking an audience seat. If you'd like to splurge, book one of the enormous Loft Suites—with two floors, private living and dining areas, and gigantic balconies, you may never need to leave.
Dining a Deux: The loner's nemesis is traditional assigned dining, which forces interaction with strangers who might, if you are so unlucky, chit-chat nonstop for an entire cruise. But, Royal Caribbean is one of scores of cruise lines forsaking tradition: Its "My Time Dining" offers a choice of open or assigned seating in the main dining room; dine at off-peak hours to enjoy a table for two. Or, take advantage of the many bistro-style alternative eateries, where tables for two are easier to come by. You can pre-book reservations over the Internet, or just show up hoping for a table. Best for intimate meals are Chops Grille and 150 Central Park. Conversely, don't expect peace at Johnny Rockets and the Seafood Shack, both situated on the noisy, well-lit Boardwalk.
Beware! Due to their size, Oasis-class ships are sticking to the most popular (read: congested) mega-ports in the Caribbean, such as Nassau, St. Maarten, and St. Thomas. For tips on avoiding the crowds in port, read our sister site Cruise Critic's article, It's Tuesday in St. Thomas: Gridlock Alert?
Runner Up: Cunard's 148,528-ton Queen Mary 2 has a cosmopolitan vibe, attentive service, and richly appointed cabins for high-paying Grill-class passengers especially. Seek out quiet spots in the planetarium and library.
Best for Maximizing Time in Port: River Beatrice
Why: Would you sooner pull out your own teeth than be led around by perky staffers on a group outing? If you prefer to wander on your own and spend lots of time off the ship in port, then a river cruise might be for you. Uniworld River Cruises' River Beatrice, which sailed its maiden season last year, docks daily in the center of towns and cities along Europe's Danube River. You can hop off for a walk or bicycle ride, then hop back on the ship to get dressed for a romantic meal in the dining room or in town. River Antoinette, a new sister ship sailing her maiden voyage next March 2011, will even have a pool to relax in after the days' adventures.
Quiet Escapes: Shore excursions are part of the all-inclusive fare, but you're not forced to attend. Feel free to explore on your own, or you can keep to the fringes of a group by donning a portable headset, called Quietvox, which picks up your tour guide's voice from several feet away. Back onboard, grab a drink and a book in the reading corner of the Captain's Lounge, and tune out the world for a few hours.
Best Rest: Looking for a sumptuous sanctuary? River Beatrice has 14 suites with French balconies (225 square feet) and one spectacular Owner's Suite (300 square feet)—the largest number of suites in the river segment of the cruise industry. Book these extra-spacious staterooms to enjoy leisurely mornings with in-cabin coffee-making facilities and breakfast ordered to the room, as well as quiet evenings watching movies on the suite's DVD player. River cruising may have suffered in the past from a reputation for iffy decor, but the designers of the tony Red Carnation hotels have plumped River Beatrice's rooms with silk taffeta and antiques, Egyptian linens and cashmere wool blankets, custom Savoy beds, and original art. Suite 405 is unique with a comfy, four-poster bed.
Dining a Deux: Mealtimes with fellow passengers in the all-open-seating dining room are convivial, as they mostly consist of tables for four. For more privacy, try the Captain's Lounge, where tables for two are set up in the evenings, or dine ashore.
Beware! Suites may be luxe, but the lowest cabin categories can be small, measuring about 150 square feet. If you want to spend a lot of time in your room, you'll want to pay up for more space. Also, as with boutique oceangoing ships, there's really no escaping fellow passengers while onboard these small river vessels. But, bring a book and your headphones up to the sun deck, and you likely won't be bothered.
Runner Up: For an even more port-intensive cruise with exotic flair, Hurtigruten's Midnatsol and Trollfjord make 34 stops over a six- or seven-day voyage, delivering people, goods, and mail along the Norwegian coast. With lots of Europeans onboard, the language barrier may be a good way to avoid small talk.
Best Ship-Within-a-Ship: MSC Fantasia and MSC Splendida
Why: What better way to find seclusion than to shun others from entering one's gated domain? Classed cruising is back in a big way, though the degree of privacy and exclusivity ranges widely, depending on the ship. Some have blocked-off sun deck space or concierge lounges set aside for suite-dwellers; others speed V.I.P. passengers through debarkation and tendering, while still others have entry-fee-required beach clubs or bars. MSC Fantasia and sibling MSC Splendida take the concept furthest with the MSC Yacht Club—a more-than-43,000-square-foot enclave of nearly 100 suites, accessed via private entrance. Plus, butler and concierge service means these elite passengers can avoid waiting in line to book group or private shore excursions and have snacks brought right to their doors. Not a member of the in-crowd? Take heart: MSC ships, in general, don't overwhelm passengers with annoying PA announcements or constantly throbbing muzak, and they're known for a quieter cruising vibe.
Quiet Escapes: The Yacht Club has its own private pool area with a solarium, an elevator that whisks guests privately to the MSC Aurea Spa, and an exclusive lounge located above the bridge (great for when you're feeling somewhat social but still prefer to avoid cattle-class watering holes). Butlers flit about the Club, bearing complimentary drinks, appetizers, daily afternoon tea, and room service from an exclusive menu. In all, the ships' designers and Yacht Club service team have thought of everything you could need to hang out in peace, privacy, and privileged comfort after you're done exploring other areas of the ship or come back from a busy day ashore.
Best Rest: Suites range from 278 square feet to a respectable 571 square feet (Royal Suite), with furnishings and amenities that are a notch above the rest—think marble-accented baths, Italian linens, and a pillow menu. With such luxurious amenities, solitary types can easily while away the hours in their cabins without braving the more public areas of the ship. Plus, 80 percent of all cabins have balconies, making a private outdoor retreat much more affordable.
Dining a Deux: Try the French restaurant, L'Etoile, on Fantasia and L'Olivo Mediterranean Restaurant on Splendida, as these alternative dining venues offer plentiful tables for two. As a bonus, Yacht Club guests eat at these restaurants free of charge.
Beware! Yacht Clubbers dine together in a cordoned-off section of the ship's main dining room, which, some MSC veterans report, actually tends to increase chumminess among the ship's elite guests. Eating outside the V.I.P. area may be the wiser choice to ensure a peaceful meal.
Runner Up: MSC Yacht Club is the standout example of a ship-within-a-ship—but not for long. Norwegian Cruise Line 's Norwegian Epic, due for her maiden transatlantic crossing in late June 2010, will debut a massive, two-deck complex of 60 suites and villas with access to a private pool, whirlpools, sauna, sun deck, gym, dining venue, bar, and concierge lounge. The ship will carry 4,200 passengers, but in this exclusive area, you may never encounter most of them. Plus, if you enjoy a less-crowded, but ultra-chic, beach club experience, the South Beach-inspired POSH Beach Club carries a cover charge and is open day and night to adults only.
Best Family Escape: Disney Magic, Disney Wonder
Why: There are two basic things every parent, particularly of small children, wants from a cruise. The first is to get to know their kids better by spending quality time with them, away from the daily drill of work and home routines. The second is to park the little darlings in a safe place and have time alone or as a couple—no screaming, whining, or name-calling allowed. As you'd fully expect, family- and kid-oriented activities abound on Disney Magic and Disney Wonder; the ships have some of the most expansive kids' clubs afloat, as well as plenty of fun for families to share together. But, the cruise line is also a pro at keeping grownups entertained, with adults-only areas, wine tastings, galley tours, and more. On some itineraries, including European cruises, nursery and kids programming is available on port days as well, giving parents the option to go exploring by themselves onshore. For the joy of watching your child's eyes light up as Minnie Mouse hugs her, and at the same time, the freedom to be briefly, blissfully kid-free, Disney just nails it.
Quiet Escapes: Instead of the gym's busy treadmills, head to Deck 4 for a fresh-air jog along the Promenade, which doubles as a track. Read or hang out at Cove Cafe, a New York-style coffee house, occupying two full levels on Disney Wonder (just one on Disney Magic). Take a dip at Quiet Cove, an adults-only pool next to the spa. Or, sign up for one of several shore excursions conceived for those older than 18—think Ferrari joy rides in Italy, or cigar- and rum-tastings at a classic Nassau resort.
Best Rest: All staterooms on Disney ships come with stress-relieving family conveniences, such as split bathrooms with separate rooms for the toilet and shower (plus a full, deep bathtub), as well as bedroom and living room areas that are separated with a curtain, so moms and dads can relax in-cabin with a book, while the kiddies sleep on the other side of the divider. Disney's Deluxe Oceanview Staterooms with Verandahs, at 268 square feet, provide more-than-adequate space for families of four. But, if you really want to splurge on roomy digs, Deck 8's Concierge Suites—particularly the 1,029-square-foot Royal Suite with double-length balcony—are the ships' most inviting accommodations. As the name suggests, you get the services of a friendly "cast member" who can smooth the logistics of a family's daily ship and shore routine, letting you avoid lines and enjoy more downtime.
Dining a Deux: Mealtimes in Magic's and Wonder's trio of assigned-seating dining rooms are creative, lively, and fun—but with little ones in tow, you'll hardly relax. The late seating attracts older children and so tends to be calmer. Plus, there's an ingenious option to hand off tots—who have whizzed through dinner and are getting antsy—to nursery staff, who come to collect the children mid-meal, so parents can finish dinner in peace. A buffet served on Deck 9 is actually best for families seeking some semblance of tranquility in the evening, as it's consistently less busy than the dining rooms. And, those 18 and older should definitely try Cove Cafe for mid-afternoon coffee and snacks, and Palo for adults-only Italian dinners, as well as afternoon teas and brunches.
Beware! Beat Street, featuring a nightclub, sports bar, and piano bar on Disney Magic (called Route 66 on Disney Wonder) is a fantastic place for parents to let loose, but not necessarily to relax. And, the Pirates' Deck Party is a big no-no for families who don't enjoy boisterous excitement, head-spinning buffet choices, music, dancing, and the industry's only fireworks show at sea. Arrrgh, indeed!
Runner Up: Holland America Line fans skew quite a bit older, with cruises that are more sedate and geared toward adults than Disney's. But, HAL's Signature-class Nieuw Amsterdam, which debuts in July 2010, and sister ship Eurodam have decent programming. More importantly, they're two of only a few ships in the cruise industry that offer in-cabin baby-sitting—even on port days. Plus, you won't find thousands of kids onboard as you will on Carnival or Royal Caribbean mega-ships, so your tranquil vacation is less likely to be interrupted by lovable little rascals careening through the hallways or splashing in the swimming pools.
Best for Flexibility in a Posh Setting: Oceania's Nautica, Insignia, Regatta, and Marina
Why: Oceania's three 684-passenger ships—Insignia, Regatta, and Nautica—offer a refreshing mix of flexible options and high style. An open-seating dining policy allows you to eat when you want and with your choice of tablemates in multiple fee-free venues. Itineraries are port-intensive, and you'll see lots of hired cars and drivers waiting to pick up passengers at the dock for private outings. Onboard venues are relaxed and uncrowded. Overall, Oceania gives you solid choices for unstructured, mingle-as-you-wish cruises, and cruise fares aren't quite as expensive as true luxury lines like Seabourn and Silversea. Marina, the 65,000-ton, 1,252-passenger ship set to debut in February 2011, looks poised to top the existing fleet's best offerings and correct some minor shortcomings (such as small cabins), but will carry more passengers.
Quiet Escapes: A quiet retreat, and one of the loveliest spots onboard, is the top-deck library, found on Insignia, Regatta, and Nautica. Marina will feature an even more beautiful, expansive library that's billed as a proper English-style reading room, with hundreds of books lining wood-paneled walls. The new ship also promises a kind of bohemian hangout called the Artists' Loft, where budding Monets and Picassos (and scrap-bookers and needle-pointers) can dish tips with artists-in-residence or simply lose themselves in their own artistic creations. Sun decks on the original Oceania triplets are quieter than most cruise-ship pool areas, but for a true getaway, splurge on a private cabana, which you can book by the day or the cruise. Close the drapes to lounge on your sunbed in total quiet, or call the cabana attendant to order drinks (including Oceania's famous milkshakes), lunch, or afternoon tea to your retreat. Heading indoors? Martini's lounge is a quiet spot during the mid- to late afternoon.
Best Rest: Oceania's cabins aren't the generous sanctuaries that cruise travelers can find on other upscale lines; a Verandah Suite, for example, measures just 216 square feet. Book a suite if you truly intend to spend a lot of time secluded in your cabin. With Marina, size will no longer be an issue; the ship's Penthouse Suites measure a respectable 420 square feet—nearly 100 square feet larger than the Penthouses of the current fleet—roomy enough to fit separate living/dining quarters and a walk-in closet. Cabins will also have 42-inch plasma televisions, Hermes and Clarins bath amenities, and funky memory foam Prestige Tranquility mattresses, which have gel-filled, pillow-top cushions and chamomile-infused fibers. (The triplets will also receive the upgraded bedding.) What reason could you possibly have to leave your stateroom?
Dining a Deux: If you are going to venture out into Oceania's public areas, it should be for the food. Menus are created by celeb chef Jacques Pepin and are well worth the calories. Dining on Oceania ships is all open-seating, room service is available 'round the clock, and tea with scones and clotted cream tempt you every afternoon. The Grand Dining Room has a few tables for two, as do specialty restaurants, and you can request a specific table (subject to availability). Dining at Polo Grill (steakhouse), Toscana (Italian), and Tapas on the Terrace incurs no extra charge—so you won't blow your vacation budget on private dinners. For lunch, grab a sandwich at the Waves Grill, and dine out by the pool. Marina will have a total of 10 dining venues onboard, giving passengers more choices for intimate dinners.
Beware! Repeat cruisers have a tendency to turn Oceania sailings into reunion parties, and the line markets aggressively to this companionable crowd. Families should also be aware that no children's programming is available.
Runners Up: At 32,000 tons and with 450 passengers, Seabourn Odyssey and Seabourn Sojourn are Seabourn's largest vessels yet, with low passenger-to-area ratios and serene two-deck spas. Thoughtfully designed with little nooks and public rooms to dip into, the ships also feature spacious cabins, most with ample balconies (rather than the French-style mini-balconies found on the older ships). Seabourn is another line famous for its intensely loyal and affable core of repeat cruisers. Members of the anti-social set, consider yourselves warned!
Your Turn
What cruises do you think are best for relaxing and fining alone time?
What's Up With Shore Excursions?
6/22/201012:35:53 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
Shore Excursions: Everything You Need to Know
by Erica Silverstein, Cruise Critic - June 22, 2010
Snorkeling through coral reefs, exploring ancient Roman ruins, hiking on glaciers, shopping at local outdoor markets—all of these shore side activities are as much a part of the cruise experience as enjoying the onboard amenities of your ship. Indeed, half the fun of taking a cruise is exploring exciting new places—tropical islands, bustling metropolises, and exotic countries.
So to enhance each port visit (as well as to increase their profits), cruise lines offer organized shore excursions on all ships for additional fees. These land-based trips run the gamut from sightseeing city tours to cultural events and active pursuits. You can take a sunset pleasure cruise in St. Lucia, visit penguin colonies in the Falkland Islands, go wine tasting in Provence, or rollerblade through Copenhagen. The tours can be booked onboard at your ship's excursions desk or online before you depart on your trip.
The benefits of booking ship-sponsored tours are many. You can skip the hassle of arranging your own onshore activities, you'll know the tour provider is licensed and reputable, and the ship won't depart until all of its tour buses have returned—even the tardy ones. You may also meet other shipmates whose company you'll enjoy back on the
But ship tours are not always the way to go. The pleasurability and efficiency of tour operators varies from ship to ship, and some tour offerings are simply duds. All too often, shore excursions translate into time-consuming bus rides with drop-offs at shopping centers proffering souvenirs you can live without. For example, following a long, hot (but worthwhile) tour of the Acropolis outside of Athens, passengers who thought they were being driven back to their ship were squirreled into a tacky little shop, belonging to the tour guide's brother-in-law. Finally, you will often pay more for the privilege of letting the cruise line arrange your day than you would if you booked directly with a provider.
To give you the skills to make the best decisions about your days in port, here is our best advice on what to expect from a shore excursion and how to make the most of your time ashore.
What to Expect: Shore Excursions
Cruise lines offer a mind-boggling array of tours—everything from basic snorkeling trips to more involved, overnight tours to see the Great Pyramids in Egypt. Here's a primer on what you can expect to see on offer.
Active vs. Sightseeing Tours Shore excursions cover all levels of activity and interest and vary greatly, depending on what's available in each destination. Active tours could be anything from water sports to zip-lining, hiking, biking, and dog-sledding. Activity-based trips might feature a day at the spa or beach, a pleasure cruise on a sailboat, wine or food tasting, a cultural performance, or a visit to a museum. Sightseeing excursions are typically bus tours that take passengers to the highlights and shopping areas of the port city or nearby destinations. Remember that excursions look different in different parts of the word. In the Caribbean, you'll find options like snorkeling with stingrays or transportation to private beaches; European tours focus more on sightseeing—for example, full-day tours from the port of Livorno to the museums and cathedrals of Florence, or multi-hour lunches, featuring local produce, meats, and wine at a farmhouse in Tuscany.
Full vs. Half-Day Tours Shore excursions vary in length. Some take up all your time in port, while others are just a few hours of an all-day visit. Choose a full-day tour to see the most you can in one trip or for journeys to destinations outside the port city. A half-day tour might only focus on one specific itinerary—a three-hour kayak trip or a highlights tour of a city—but gives you free time to explore the port on your own before or after.
Guided vs. Free Time Not all shore excursions involve busloads of tourists, dutifully following flag- or umbrella-waving guides. You will find these types of sightseeing tours, as well as athletic endeavors overseen by dive masters or hike leaders. However, some tours simply bring you to a destination where you're free to explore until it's time to meet the bus to go home, while others feature guided components, followed by an hour or two of free time.
Highlights vs. In-Depth: Some shore excursions—such as daylong trips from Tunis to the marketplace, museum, and ancient Carthage—pack many activities into one trip. Others focus on one destination or activity, like a trip to the Mayan ruins from Cozumel. It's up to you whether you'd prefer to see many things for short amounts of time or focus on one place, in-depth.
Concierge or Boutique Some of the newest trends in shore excursions include intimate tours that are limited to 25 or so guests. Many lines offer these "boutique" excursions, which could be cooking classes at a renowned French cooking school or a behind-the-scenes tour of the Hermitage in St. Petersburg. Many lines also offer car-and-driver packages (so you can customize your own tour), or have concierges to arrange shore side activities exclusively for your travel party. You can skip the caravan of four large tour buses and trade up for a more exclusive experience.
Shore Excursions vs. Independent Exploration
One of the biggest questions cruisers have is whether or not to take a ship-sponsored shore excursion. The answer banks on your budget, as well as your inclinations. Port tours vary in price, depending on the cruise line, and can run you anywhere from $40 per person for a simple beach break, to hundreds of dollars each for such higher-priced options as helicopter rides, golf, and long-day or overnight tours. Taking a tour in every port can quickly inflate your onboard bill.
Shore excursions are worth it if you want to venture to attractions that are located far from the pier, learn more about an area through a guide, or participate in physical activities where gear is required (biking, diving, golf). However, if all you want to do is walk around town, shop, or visit the beach, it could be much cheaper and less time-consuming to get a map and go it on your own. For instance, in St. Thomas, the shops are a stone's throw from the ship, but beaches are a cab ride away. (Although it still might be less expensive to hail a taxi to the beach than to participate in a tour.) And, in tiny Monte Carlo, the castle, cathedral, and casino are all within walking distance of your ship. Don't forget about arranging your own transportation, too. In Hawaii, many ports offer on-site car rentals or rental agency pickups. In Barcelona, you can easily use a combination of local buses, the subway, and hop-on, hop-off tourist buses to get around.
However, in big cities like Athens, Rome, and Florence—which are far from the port—it may make more sense to spring for a tour. It is also wiser to take a shore excursion in any third world country or in foreign ports, where language and customs might prove to be barriers. For example, in Brunei, you would definitely want to take the guided tour to sites like the biggest mosque in Asia—Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque. You'd probably never find it on your own. And, without guidance, you may not realize the necessity to respect local customs by covering your body from head to toe in long pants, long skirts, and long sleeves. (Don't laugh—this happened on a recent visit. Luckily, the locals are used to this and have a few robes on-hand to loan visitors.) In Tunis, you might not wish to participate in the aggressive haggling, conducted by the taxi drivers at the pier. Opt, instead, for a ship-arranged tour to the souk or ancient Carthage.
The third option is the hybrid: Book your own tour in advance through a local provider. You can often save money by eliminating the cruise-line middleman, or customize the trip to your interests. However, remember that, while the cruise ship will wait for any late-returning, ship-sponsored tours, you run the risk of getting stranded in port if your independent tour gets stuck in traffic and is late returning to the pier.
Advance Planning and Resources
The secret to a wonderful day ashore is to plan ahead. Learn about the attractions in each port, so you can decide whether to book a tour or go it alone. For example, you'll want to know that Livorno is actually the port for Florence and Pisa, but both destinations are quite far from the port. It's also helpful to note that in the Greek Isles, Santorini does not have great beaches, while Mykonos is internationally renowned for its sandy spots. Planning ahead will let you balance relaxing beach days with days spent shopping, sightseeing, or in active pursuits.
Cruisers have multiple resources for researching in-port activities.
- Look up your cruise line's list of shore excursions with tour descriptions and prices. Many cruise lines have this information available online—you will also be sent a booklet of all the tours with your cruise documents. Some lines allow you to reserve tours in advance through their websites (see our sister site, Cruise Critic for its Online Reservations feature) or through a travel agent.
- Once you know your itinerary, visit Cruise Critic's Ports of Call area for tips on spending your day ashore. You'll find information on the best excursions, as well as suggestions for restaurants, beaches, and must-see attractions.
- Browse guidebooks on the destinations you're planning to visit. If you find that it's pricey to buy multiple guidebooks for all the regions your ship will visit, consider borrowing them from your local library and photocopying pertinent pages to take on your vacation. Or, buy a guide aimed at cruisers, such as Frommer's Cruises & Ports of Call or Fodor's The Complete Guide to Caribbean (or European) Ports of Call.
- Contact the tourism bureau for your destination. Tourism websites typically offer a wealth of information, and the bureaus will often send you maps or print materials that detail activities, restaurants and tour companies. You may want to find out if there's a tourism office at or near the port, so you can pick up a map and get information.
Don't forget to come up with a Plan B, in case your desired tour gets canceled or is sold out.
If you've done your research and have decided to book ship tours, think carefully about whether to book in advance or wait until you get onboard. It's best to book in advance for limited-availability excursions (like flightseeing in Alaska or Hawaii) and must-do tours. (For example, if you'd be heart-broken if you didn't go snorkeling in Cozumel or to the Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg, book in advance.) If you're uncertain or are happy with several options, waiting might be a good idea. Some cruise lines charge penalty fees for canceling shore excursions onboard or within 24 to 48 hours of the port call, so you might want to wait to see how the weather is or how you like the line's tours before booking all of your excursions.
How to Get the Most from Your Shore Excursion
Here are a few final tips to keep in mind in order to get the best experience out of your shore excursion.
- Read shore excursion descriptions very carefully to understand exactly how your time will be spent on the tour. Add up how much time is spent on the bus, driving between attractions, and compare that to how much time is spent at each destination. If you are unsure, ask the shore excursion manager to describe the tour in detail. You may have to decide between spending short amounts of time in a variety of places and getting an in-depth tour of one area, while missing out on several others.
- Some tours involve strenuous treks in hot, humid climes or long days with lots of walking. Cruise lines are typically good at pointing out which excursions are strenuous and even which are best for travelers with limited mobility. Be sure to pick tours that you can handle physically.
- Staff members who work aboard ships are great sources of information on the best local beaches, restaurants and shopping (since they often visit the same ports every week). Ask where they go -- the purser's office is an especially good resource.
- Your final bill can add up if you buy a shore excursion in every port. However, in some ports—especially in Alaska, Europe, or exotic destinations—shore excursions are the only way to go. Budget accordingly.
- If you are a scuba diver, check out local dive clubs in the islands you intend to visit. They are listed in information obtained from tourist offices.
- Hiring a private taxi is often less expensive than the ship's excursion, depending on the number of people you have in your group. When hiring a taxi, be sure to negotiate a flat rate—based on your destination and the approximate amount of time you'll need—before you depart. If you want narration in addition to transportation, choose a driver with a good command of English.
- When renting a car in port, it's always best to reserve it before departure; rates are lower, and you know the agency won't be sold out. Check with your rental company to find out whether you'll need an International Driving Permit (available through AAA and other automobile associations) or if your driver's license will suffice.
Do consider a River Cruise and Here's Why
6/9/201012:03:05 PM Link 0 comments | Add comment
The river boom: Cruising through the heart of Europe BY JAY CLARKE
Special to The Miami Herald
Sometimes we sat on deck and watched the passing scenes as our river cruiser, the Viking Spirit, rolled along the Danube past onion-steepled churches, medieval castles and monasteries, hills layered with vineyards, small villages, people of the country at work or at play.
Other times we settled in the cozy, windowed lounge, where we could sip coffee or cocktails and chat with fellow passengers as we sailed. Unlike big ocean-going ships, we were always close to shore -- no binoculars needed.
And when we docked at a river city, we could step off the ship and walk right into the center of things -- quick entry to Europe's main cities, which were built on rivers.
These are some of the reasons we loved our European river cruise -- and why a boom in such cruises has been taking place in recent years.
Well over a dozen new ships have been built in the past two years to sail on European rivers -- and that's on top of an already very substantial fleet that plies the continent's waterways. Today, Europe has 25,000 berths on river ships and has Russia another 30,000, according to Rudy Schreiner, president of AMA Waterways and a pioneer in the business.
That's still far less than the space available on ocean-going ships -- Carnival Cruise Lines alone has more berths than that and it's just one cruise line.
But while big vessels undeniably offer more options, both onboard and in port, passengers on small river ships enjoy a much more intimate experience.
``The heart of the enjoyment is the small ship ambience with only 150 to 160 passengers . . . open-seating dining, meeting new friends and the coziness,'' said Patrick Clark, managing director of Avalon Waterways.
Just as important is the easy access to city attractions, Clark added. With ships stopping at a different port every day, passengers can see a lot in a short time -- and they don't have to pack and unpack every day as they would on a motorcoach tour of those cities.
BLUE DANUBE
Europe's most popular river cruise is the Danube, particularly the segment from Budapest to Passau, followed by the Rhine from Amsterdam to Basel. But cruises are offered on a number of other European rivers, among them the Rhone and Seine (France); Holland's waterways; the Elbe, Main and Moselle (Germany); the Guadalquiver (Spain); the Volga (Russia); and the Duoro (Portugal). You can even cruise all the way from Amsterdam on the Atlantic coast to the Black Sea, passing through multiple countries.
Although a number of companies offer European river cruises, four dominate those that cater to Americans -- Viking, Uniworld, Avalon and AMA Waterways. All have multiple ships and all have been expanding in recent years.
• In the past 18 months, Avalon has built four new ships. It will launch another in 2011 and two in 2012.
• Uniworld owns nine ships in Europe plus one charter and next year will debut its largest ship, the Antoinette, which the company says will have the largest staterooms of all European river ships.
• AMA had seven ships in Europe in 2006. Now it has 10, including the new Amabella, which debuted May 7.
• Viking, the biggest river cruise line, has 14 ships in Europe and five in Russia and Ukraine, and has announced it will build eight more ships (at least three of which will sail in Europe) in the next three years.
All have ships operating on other continents, such as Egypt's Nile in Africa and China's Yangtze in Asia.
River cruisers are low-slung vessels -- they have to be in order to pass under Europe's low river bridges. In fact, passengers on the top deck have to go below when a ship approaches a bridge because the clearance often is very close. The ships also have to go through multiple locks that raise or lower them to new water levels; on our seven-day cruise, we passed through 23 locks.
Capacity on European river ships ranges up to perhaps 160 passengers, and before the cruise ends, most people have gotten to know each other. Some ships that sail on Russian are larger, carrying as many as 240 passengers. Cruises range from two to 18 nights.
The busy season is May through September, with low season in April and in October through December. Some lines still have cabins available this summer, but more space is available in the fall.
In addition to an extensive variety of season-long itineraries, river cruise lines also offer special sailings. Among them: Cruises on Holland's waterways in spring at tulip time and holiday cruises that stop at Christmas markets in late fall. Some cruises focus on a certain subject, such as castles on the Rhine, vineyards and wineries, or paintings of the Impressionists. The cruise lines seem to add several new itineraries every year.
BALCONIES & POOLS
River cruise lines also are picking up ideas from new ocean-going ships. Some new river ships have staterooms with full balconies and some have swimming pools, features none had just a few years ago.
It's not just features that river ships are picking up from the ocean-going lines. ``Ocean cruisers are an untapped market for us,'' said Guy Young, president of Uniworld. ``Eighty-five percent of our passengers are past ocean cruisers.''
But fares on river ships are higher.
An Amsterdam-Zurich cruise on the Rhine in high season runs perhaps $2,400 per person, Avalon's Clark said, with Danube cruises slightly higher. Low season -- April and October -- may run $300-$400 less, he said. The popular seven-night Budapest-Passau cruise on the Danube on Uniworld costs $2,799 per person in high season and $1,799 in low season, Uniworld's Young said. Schreiner ballparks AMA's pricing at $400 per person per day in high season, $300 in low season.
All those fares, however, include items such as shore excursions and port charges that cost extra on ocean cruises.
``River cruises are not inexpensive,'' said Avalon's Clark, ``but they're a great value.''
PAYING IN DOLLARS
The fare is in dollars and all-inclusive, and Americans know in advance what the cost will be, a real plus in these days of fluctuating currency exchange rates. Inclusions may vary from line to line, but ship transportation, lodging, shore excursions, wine with dinner and onboard entertainment are usually provided. Bar bills and gratuities are extra.
Entertainment is simpler on river ships. Many have a pianist on board who plays before and after dinner. On our seven-night cruise, the staff also brought in entertainment from shore on three evenings.
We also opted for a couple of optional excursions -- an evening concert in Vienna and a tour of sites related to the rise and fall of Adolf Hitler in Nuremberg, the heartbed of Naziism.
Many passengers book optional shore extensions offered by the cruise lines before or after their cruise. On our river cruise, for example, we added a three-night hotel stay in Prague.
